After repeating the procedure a couple more times, I had raised the vcore up to 1.55V, which is about as far as I was willing to raise it. The computer still won't boot all the way with these settings so I have no choice but to lower my FSB increase to a total of 14MHz, knocking it down by only 1MHz from the unbootable amount. I set the vcore back down to 1.5V, saved my settings, and tried to boot at 14MHz. Again, the computer would not boot all the way into the operating system, so, I raised the vcore again, this time up to 1.5250V. After saving the settings, I restarted the computer again and waited patiently.

SUCCESS! The computer booted up nicely into windows. I ran my gaming stress test, and this time I even ran Prime 95 for a short period of time (you should run it for much longer than I did) all to get the results that the system was indeed stable at this speed. As you can see in the CPU-Z readout, it is running at 3315MHz, that is a full 15MHz over my original target. So, goal achieved, I am satisfied with my overclocking results, but I do notice one slight problem. The CPU temperature according to Speedfan is reading 3C higher than it was before, meaning my idle temperature was right around 44C. Normally I wouldn't fret about a temperature like that, but after running the Prime95 torture test, the temperature was 58C. That is really close to my 60C limit I decided on earlier. Although the final temperatures you get after achieving your overclocking goal might be within the boundaries that you had decided, they could still be a little higher than what you would prefer. In that case, you might consider backing down the FSB a little bit to sort out your temperatures. Another problem to note with my end result is that the system failed in the Prime95 torture test that uses your Memory as well as the CPU. This is very likely the result of my inability to overclock my RAM, which means it is not running on par with the FSB of my processor, which results in instability.

If at any time during your overclocking experience should your system not POST (not do anything except make noise after you turn it on), there are some things you should know how to do. If you recall, I stated above that you should know where your CMOS jumpers are located on your motherboard. If your computer will not POST as a result of some change you made to the BIOS while overclocking, clearing out the CMOS will likely solve this problem, as it restores default settings to all components. To do this, turn the computer off and remove the jumper from the motherboard for about 1 minute, then put it back on. After doing this you could be missing some critical files for firewalls and virus protection software, so reinstall those programs, set your system clock to the right time and date, and be thankful you did not totally destroy your system.


Parts
So I ended up increasing the FSB of my processor by a total of 21MHz. This means the final FSB was 221MHz. Ideally, I would have liked to have my RAM run at that speed also, and even if I had had the option in the BIOS to overclock it, there is no guarantee that the particular RAM I have would overclock to 221MHz (DDR 442-ish).

So the underlying problem might be that I am going to need RAM with a better ability to overclock than what I currently have. As mentioned before, there are various types of RAM produced by different companies, and these types of RAM have been rated by overclockers according to how well they perform and how far they can be pushed. Not only that, but the products companies make that use the chips that are able to overclock well have been noted and here are a some of them sorted according to different types of overclockage:

Light Overclocking Memory:
DDR2: Crucial Ballistix DDR2 533
-Micron is making some nice DDR2 modules these days, and Crucial gets first pick at the lot. The Ballistix will scale very nicely for a light overclock.
DDR: Crucial Ballistix DDR 400
-For memory that will help out light over clockers, you are gonna be spending just about 100 dollars for 1GB. Several products such as Corsair XMS and Kingston HyperX fall into this category, but from what I have gathered about the Crucial Ballistix that I have listed there, it is bar-none the best bet for the price.

Moderate Overclocking Memory:
DDR2: OCZ Gold Series DDR2 800
-Man oh man this stuff has a lot of headroom should you want to set your ratio a bit (a lot) higher than 1:1.
DDR: Crucial Ballistix DDR 400
-As you can see, this memory is the same as the Light overclocking memory. Reason being: it has a huge amount of headroom. This is going to be the some of the best overclocking RAM you can get for the price.

Extreme Overclocking Memory:
DDR2: Crucial Ballistix DDR2 1000
-Other than the fact that it is Crucial we're talking about, the number is 1000. I mean, come on.
DDR: Mushkin Redline DDR 500
-As can be seen from ZeGermans' Price Guides, Mushkin Redline memory can be some of the absolute best memory for overclocking purposes. If you have the motherboard ability for it, no doubt Mushkin Redline is a good thing to have.

(note: Most newer Pentium 4's use DDR2, while the older ones use DDR. If you are unsure about which type you need, CPU-Z should be able to tell you that.)